Beautiful Village of St Amour and Paradise Hotel

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Taken from my French Travel book ‘Off the Autoroute’ available on Amazon & Kindle Unlimited

South from Beaune in the small but perfectly named Beaujolais village of St Amour is the also perfectly and aptly named Le Auberge du Paradis. Run by Cyril and his wife Valerie this hotel restaurant portrays the atmosphere of being in Paradise effortlessly. The welcome and level of service from these two proud restauranteurs is remarkable. We arrived at reception tired. Although soon refreshed by a shower in one of their beautiful rooms, all named after spices, it still did not feel as if we were ready for a large evening meal. The menu was a tasting one, an expansive presentation of seven courses. We were shown to a sizeable, elegant table with a crisp tablecloth displaying beautiful cutlery and glasses. The feast began but we fell at the fourth hurdle and had to apologize profusely that we were too exhausted to continue.

The next night, feeling substantially revived, Valerie informed us that Cyril would make sure we were able to taste what we had missed the night before. That meant we were going to have around ten courses, but she assured us he would go easy on the portion size. So, ten courses and sufficient St Amour red wine later I was ready to stumble into bed. I asked Valerie the reasonable question of how many chefs they employed to do this every night with a fully booked dining room.

‘Just one – Cyril does all the cooking.’

This was clearly impossible.

So, ‘Can I see?’

‘Certainement, suivez-moi’

Going through the corridor we emerged into a compact kitchen space. There indeed was Cyril, one man. Oh, and his smiling washer-up helper. I bowed in reverence, speechless that such dedication and effort had produced one of the finest dining experiences I have ever had.

What a man is Cyril.

It was a memorable evening, a memorable stay, and after slowly making our way up the softly candle lit staircase we fell contentedly to sleep. Paradise indeed.

St Amour has a compact village centre that has much to offer the visitor. Apart from our auberge there is another enticing hotel. Behind the auberge and just along from it are a couple of outlets for producers of this wonderfully named St Amour wine. Tastings are gladly offered.

Opposite the auberge is the Poterie de Saint Amour Bellevue. France is blessed with having numerous talented artisans of all kinds in most of the villages you pass through. Pottery is always a craft that is pursued enthusiastically by the French, and here in St Amour, Lola et Mathias are skilled artisans. It is a gallery that has you spoilt for choice but finally we decided on a piece for home, for our dining table. It is something that still gives pleasure and has done so on every occasion we have entertained our friends. This cheese platter was so unusual we just had to have it. The colours are beautiful, but it is the perfectly formed little mouse trying to reach the round of cheese that always amuses our friends, no matter how many times we use it.

A tour of France is never complete without searching out these gifted artists in the villages and towns. Do not be shy, go in and have a look. They are happy for you to browse and if you buy then that is a bonus, not a requirement.

St Amour is a special place, a romantic one because of the name. I do need to find any excuse to return. Niamh I am sure would enjoy once more the pampering given at Le Auberge du Paradis.

Beaujolais is a beautiful region of rolling hills, some quite small, almost mounds really, with vineyards on the slopes. The land is formed with a base of granite and limestone and as you would expect the ‘terroir’ is distinctive. Beaujolais is an easily recognisable wine with a character much different from its near neighbour Burgundy, again showing how interesting it is to travel and taste your way through so many contrasting regions of France. The wines here flow down to Lyon in the same way as the rivers that pass through that dramatic city and are part of the gastronomic culture that makes Lyon a French capital of food. We gain a clear idea of what we will see in this area just from our hotel room window looking out over these gentle hills and vineyards, a view that is worth every penny of the cost of a stay here – peaceful and bucolic.

We must now pass through Lyon, a city that I dearly wish to spend some time in. Once again, it is merely a fleeting view as we head south. Lyon is spectacular at night, the buildings on the banks of the river are brightly lit and reflected in the water. The old town winds its way up from the river and is beautifully illuminated on the hillside. The autoroute passes right along the quayside and at one point almost puts you amid the diners patronizing the lively restaurants as the road banks down to the river from the long hillside tunnel. Lyon is a city that retains a feel of its immediate past, a centre of resistance during the occupation. Even from our speeding car we sense this is a place of history and one day I will explore. Please try to get there before me.

Of course, our destination is Provence. We are part of a long stream of traffic heading to the sun. Progress will be slow, but we are in no hurry and there is plenty to enjoy on this scenic route to the South of France. It gives me time to compose myself for the force of nature that awaits us at our next base in Lourmarin.

Taken from my French Travel book ‘Off the Autoroute’ available on Amazon & Kindle Unlimited