Paris the 7th Arrondissement – or life beyond Rue Cler

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This chapter is from my book A DREAM OF PARIS available on Amazon

At the outset I have to make it clear that some of my best friends are American, as indeed are a good number of my wife Niamh’s extended family – the Irish get everywhere. However it seems to me that even you adventurous American tourists are complaining about the number of your compatriots that populate Rue Cler in the 7th Arrondissement, a now famous street within sight of the Eiffel Tower. It is as so many of you point out – the Rick Steeves effect. So is it worth going to this area of Paris or is it devoid of a true Parisian experience?

I have to say that I like Rue Cler even though it has something of an ‘American in Paris’ theme about it. If that comes across too strongly for you then be assured there is life beyond Rue Cler in this fascinating arrondissement. I hope you don’t mind but this part of the book will veer towards reading a little more like a guide book but I think this area of Paris repays a little more exploration than seems to be given to it by many visitors. Anyway, dining especially is a serious business in Paris. Like anywhere that is popular with tourists Paris will always have areas that certain groups will congregate in. Montmartre may be an area where more English tourists will find accommodation. You may find that the Japanese will gather more centrally in Paris. It has to be said that Rue Cler is most certainly an American enclave just as Lourmarin in Provence is a place they love and gather. The English in Provence will head for Menerbes, the village that Peter Mayle called home in ‘A Year in Provence’. On Rue Cler you have two cafés in particular that have become American clubs in reality – Café Du Marche and Le Central. It is true that some restaurants on Rue Cler have dumbed down their menus and are providing very standard unambitious fare, photos provided for the timid visitor. The waiter you will see is languidly placing the change on the table, his eyes looking elsewhere for another victim, daring the diners to pick up the change but also making it clear that the coins should be added to, making a larger tip before leaving. There are however places to eat even on Rue Cler that can be very satisfying and authentic.

Le Roussillon is one such establishment situated at the corner of Rue Cler and Rue Grenelle and is a bistro where we enjoyed a most enjoyable lunch with attentive service.  Where Rue Cler scores highly is that away from the congregated throngs around Café Du Marche there are so many authentic Parisian shops. Wine and cheese stores, vegetable and grocers shops, butchers and delicatessens and of course the regular street markets. You will really get much more out of this area however if you look beyond Rue Cler and these are a few places we have found and enjoyed over the years in this popular neighbourhood of Paris. The very first time we stayed in this arrondissement the hotel we chose was located just behind Rue Cler on Rue Valadon at what is now Hotel Valadon Colors. It has been completely refurbished from the time of our stay and has changed in its character but is still rated very highly. Rue Valadon is a quiet street, a virtual cul-de-sac, so is an excellent choice for the area. When we stayed we had a room with an Eiffel Tower view so it is certainly a place to consider. Just at the top of the street around the corner is a most wonderful cheese store and even if you do not go inside you will find the shop window itself is worth a few moments of your time.

My interests in any arrondissement in Paris are always connected to food, finding a fine restaurant in Paris is one of the utmost joys in life. Also you may have gathered I have a great love of history and that is well catered for in this area. Recently we made what can be viewed as a slight mistake in visiting Paris in August, the very time that most Parisians leave Paris and that includes many waiters and restaurateurs. We were very limited in our dining choices and did not really want to eat at the popular spots on Rue Cler. We were staying just around the corner from Rue Cler at the Hotel de la Motte Picquet and the clue to its address is in the name. This is a lovely unpretentious three star hotel that gives excellent friendly service, clean rooms and welcoming public areas with interesting views on to the lively Avenue de la Motte Picquet. It does not however have a restaurant so it is always a case of dining out for the evening. We passed the boisterous tables and bars of the upper end of Rue Cler, giving thanks that we were not eating there. There was the thought that there appeared to be little else on offer –‘les vacances d’été’ were in full swing and the closed signs were out in profusion.

Farther along Rue Cler we reached Rue de Grenelle and going to the left you come to number 167 where there is a small Italian restaurant called Le Den. It was open and it had three tables out in the street and on a balmy evening this seemed like an oasis in a dining dessert. This super little restaurant also seems to double as a deli. It serves wonderful Italian food including pizza of course, food made with fresh seasonal ingredients. It was in total contrast to the mainly conveyer belt tourist food just round the corner on Rue Cler. We were given lovely service from the young ladies who coped smilingly as extra tables were spread out along the street to accommodate all the diners that kept on coming. You did feel a little like you were an advertisement for the restaurant as people stopped to look and admire the dishes on the tables. The raviolo especially was wonderful and I would also encourage you to try the risotto. The panna cotta was definitely the dessert to go for and the house wines are a cut above the standard you may have expected. This was a very popular place and will be more so if they get the name confusion sorted out on the awnings and shop front. I am not quite sure where Le Den comes from as a name but if you are searching for it that is the name to enter in Google. So it is a case of going early or making a reservation. We ended up on our three night trip dining here every evening and we don’t usually do that on our travels. Yes I would have to make the point that it is on a fairly busy street but it still has a great ambiance especially as the light fades and you feel that you are in an authentic Parisian neighbourhood. We found this to be a hidden gem of a restaurant in this touristy part of Paris.  You can also book on Le Fork which is always a bonus.

If, unlike ourselves, you are sensible enough not to visit Paris in August when the heat is humid and sensible Parisians have abandoned the city, then you have some exceptional choices of eating venues. There are two in particular that are the epitome of classic French restaurants, in different ways as perfect a Parisian dining experience as you will find. They are also very close to one another just a short stroll from Rue Cler across Avenue Bosquet. The first one is the most charming (and petite) restaurant Le P’Tit Troquet at 28 Rue de l’Exposition, a quiet virtually car free cul-de-sac of a street. Think of going to someone’s home for a meal, a table spread modestly but attractively and you are the special guest to be fussed over and pampered. This is Le P’Tit Troquet. On the occasion we dined there we went with two friends who trusted me that I would make a memorable choice for them and they were not disappointed. We walked into the small dining space set out with a few tables, a scene that seemed to be out of a French movie, so intimate and welcoming. The first and obvious impression we gained was that all the tables were occupied and as I had booked in advance this was a little disconcerting. The lady in charge of front of house (and it is a very small house) came over offering us a large beaming smile of welcome and led us through the tables to an even smaller room at the back of the restaurant. This room had only four small tables which were all beautifully prepared. This was exactly like someone’s dining room at home and the feeling that you were a welcomed guest was enhanced every time you had an interaction with the lady or the waiting staff – a special place indeed. The menu is classic French cuisine, beef bourguignon served temptingly en cassolette, steak, duck, monkfish, sea bass and vegetarian options. The desserts are classics with a twist, Rum baba, chocolate mi-cuit and a Crème Brulee which does not have a twist – pure classic French. The wine is expertly chosen and complimentary to the meal. The room feels as if it is unchanged from seventy years ago. A room that could double as a film set from the war years and just after. Probably in those days totally smoke filled and each table occupied with romantically involved couples. It is a quite captivating ambiance and one exploited to the full in this intoxicating restaurant by the welcoming owners. Not to mention a chef with a repertoire steeped in the fine culinary history of France and Paris. He is a craftsman producing dishes that are firmly in context with the restaurant and the atmosphere of this super little establishment. As we left that evening, my companions found it very difficult to find words that fully expressed the experience they had just savoured. We noticed for the first time a small galley type kitchen to the left – I do mean small. There was the chef and one assistant who incredibly produced this classic French feast in such a tiny space. He smiled as we peered inside, confident that all was well with the dishes he had sent out to our table. He was totally justified in that confidence as we bid him good night and stuttered our grateful thanks.

Classic but on a slightly different scale and setting is the popular La Fontaine de Mars just at the end of the same street at 129 Rue Sainte Dominique. This restaurant has entertained presidents and celebrities but is not in the least pretentious. Again the classic French theme is portrayed by the red checked tablecloths and the wood panelling around the bar and inside the restaurant. It is a restaurant that in summer becomes open plan and spills tables out onto the street. The service is warm and friendly but it is very Parisian and just as you would expect in such a restaurant very rooted in its tradition. The menu is not experimental, just straight out of the French cookery school manual. Steak of course, duck confit, coq au vin, blanquette de veau, Burgundian snails, sole meuniere, foie gras if you wish and desserts following the same tried and tested traditions. All accompanied by wine by the glass and all the traditional aperitifs and digestifs on offer. It is relatively expensive but not overwhelmingly so. If you wish the wine list does stretch to some eye watering levels and if Chateau Petrus is your desire then you will find it here at a price. On the night we dined there I had the special on the menu which was a gorgeous fresh loin of cod with a perfect aioli sauce and simply cooked turned potatoes. To follow it was that most perfect of French desserts – Iles flottantes ‘Fontaines de Mars’ and very fine it was. Eating on a table outside and virtually on the street is not without its challenges though. On the night we were there the restaurant and surroundings were ‘entertained’ for a while by a fairly inebriated beggar who was making a nuisance of himself by going back and forth along the street hoping for a few coins to be tossed in his direction. He wasn’t aggressive but a bit loud at times and lacking in tunefulness and not really helping any romantic atmosphere that some were certainly hoping for. It all ended by the loud sirens of a police van that screeched to a halt and instantly ‘scooped’ him up into custody. At last peace reigned but as with any city Paris sadly does have its darker side and there are many unfortunate people that do not have the luxury of dining in the way we have been able to do this evening. The whole episode was a little comedic in how it was enacted and unfolded but still left you dismayed and sad that in our society there are ones reduced to this state. From a historical or architectural standpoint you cannot avoid the fact that this area is totally dominated by one structure and that is the large tower at the end of the Champs de Mars.

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Eiffel Tower Paris before a storm

Once you are at the tower and you have taken all the photos from every angle and perhaps gone across to the Trocadero and taken the shot from the vantage point of the Palais de Chaillot, a view that I feel gives the most dramatic -aew of the tower as you look through it down to the Ecole Militaire and Les Invalides then take a moment to find some more recent history. A pause for thought and reflection. If you go to Bir Hakeim Metro station which is to the right of the tower looking from the Trocadero you will find a monument to a tragic time in French history – a memorial that was only erected fairly recently. It is a statue to commemorate the appalling events of July 16/17 1942 – the “Vel d’Hiv” raid – the roundup of over 8000 Jews (Rafle du Vel’ d’Hiv) to the Vélodrome d’Hiver that stood near to this spot. The tragedy was compounded by the fact that this crime against humanity was carried out mainly by the French police and not the Germans. This was only recently fully acknowledged to be the case and remains deeply controversial in France. In slight mitigation it was also clear that a few brave police did try to give an advance warning about the action and some also allowed a very small number to make their escape from the Vélodrome but the stain on French history remains. I always find these places in Paris very poignant and I make no excuse to returning to this theme throughout my writings about Paris. I feel that you can only understand this amazing city by taking time to reflect on its past and the recent history of Paris in particular. Take a reflective moment to make that connection and remember these people and events.

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Invalides courtyard Paris

The natural progression from here is back to the tower and to walk up the Champs de Mars to the Hotel des Invalides and Napoleon’s tomb. France of course still reveres Napoleon (strangely enough he inspires a good deal of respect in England) and he possibly alongside De Gaulle is the most dominant figure in French history. Of course if you are reading this sat in the sunshine and holding a glass of Dom Perignon you may want to make a case for him as well. And then there is Joan of Arc ……. Anyway back to Napoleon. Or rather another event that Les Invalides is notoriously famous for and that is the trial of Alfred Dreyfus. This Jewish army officer was erroneously and wilfully  convicted of espionage and treason – another event that although occurring over 120 years ago has not disappeared from French consciousness. Admittance to Les Invalides is free of charge although you have to pay extra for viewing Napoleon’s tomb and the main area around that. Entering from the gardens on the Rue de Grenelle you make your way into the main courtyard. This is the area where Alfred Dreyfus was humiliated in front of his peers by having his sword ceremonially broken. He was then dishonourably discharged from the army prior to his barbaric incarceration in exile before being ultimately exonerated and released some years later. The British TV personality Davina McCall was featured in a ‘Who Do You Think You Are’ episode relating that she had a family connection to one of the men who fought and ultimately succeeded in proving his innocence. If you can find it online or procure a copy it is a fascinating insight into one of the most controversial events in relatively recent French history. In any case take a moment to visualize the scene in that parade ground and reflect on an innocent man in this standout case of deliberate miscarriage of justice. Around the courtyard you will see lines of heavy cannon. It is quite a display and they date back over some 300 years or so. I can set you a small challenge. Walk around the perimeter and look at each cannon and somewhere you will find that one of them has a spelling mistake in the casting. When you find it just spare a thought for the man who cast that vast lump of iron, hoping that it just resulted in a fleeting embarrassment for him rather than him being sent into exile or worse. Unfortunately it was not too fleeting as we can still clearly see it today. At the far end of the courtyard you will find a small church or chapel. Again up to this point it is free admission. If you go inside this building you can at the far end get a sense of how Napoleon’s tomb is laid out and it gives quite a dramatic effect without actually having to go inside the tomb area itself. When you leave Les Invalides by the same route you may wish to go to the right and then right again alongside the buildings and here you will find the Rodin museum which also includes sculptures in the garden area. This is a place that is often missed by the casual tourist but Rodin is very important to the French in art history . It is worth a look if you have any interest in French art and culture. I always smile at the mention of Rodin because of that amusing scene in ‘Midnight in Paris’ where Gil argues a point about Rodin in favour of the tour guide (Carla Bruni) over the pompous Paul played by Michael Sheen.


Perhaps I can now take you back to Rue Cler via Avenue de la Motte Picquet and return to my theme of the time of the occupation of Paris. Before heading to your hotel and getting ready for a fine meal in this endlessly fascinating and rewarding arrondissement just stand and reflect in front of the Elementary School on the Rue Cler side of the road. Pause and read (in French) the black plaque on the school wall. Like most of the schools in France some young pupils were forcibly taken from this school never to return, part of the over eleven thousand children that were taken from throughout France. There is no shame in shedding a tear and you will no doubt leave the scene as you return to your hotel with a deeper relationship and understanding of Paris.

Taken from my book ‘A DREAM OF PARIS’ available on Amazon

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Neil Young – Time Fades Away

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Times Fades Away – Neil Young Live 1973

Neil Young – Time Fades Away 1973

No particular reason for starting my Neil Young musings with this one – it was just there and I fancied listening to it again. This was his first album of new material following the mega success of Harvest. Any normal artist would have released a follow up of similar material and counted the proceeds. Young is not a normal artist and this album is as far removed from Harvest as he could go at the time. For one thing it is a live album, you don’t release new material as a live album – I am sure his record company didn’t expect that. A pleasant live drift through some delightful acoustic tracks might have made them feel better but not on here. The songs are loose to say the least and Young sounds manic, almost deranged in his delivery. The band is there but not necessarily playing the same song Young is belting out. An extraordinary album by any standards – even 50 years on.

I did not come to Young with Harvest and for that I am thankful. My first introduction was ‘Everybody Knows this is Nowhere’ and I was hooked. Harvest I have to say was a disappointment at the time but I have mellowed in that view over the years. ‘Time Fades Away’ I absolutely loved, the raw power and emotion was the perfect antidote to ‘Harvest’ and the start of a trilogy of dark albums from Young. If he had produced the expected anodyne follow up to ‘Harvest’ then his career would probably have petered out after it. Fifty years on he is still going strong because of sticking to making the music he wants.

‘Time Fades Away’, Young considers to be his worst album. It was not released on CD for well over 40 years and the vinyl became history also. I have a copy thankfully. There would be plenty of contenders for his worst album to come, especially when he was winding up his record company executives. The first of the ‘Doom’ trilogy is one of his best loved albums with Young aficionados. There is a degree of that fascination with passing the scene of a car crash about listening to this. The mammoth US tour that this album is taken from was Youngs least enjoyable, a nightmare tour for him. He was in constant pain with a long standing back problem. It then had a nightmare beginning with Danny Whitten being fired for his inability to hold it together. Dying after spending the money given him to get home on drugs and alcohol, Young was shattered, distressed, blaming himself for this tragedy. The tour still took place.

As a big star the band and crew thought Young would be a soft touch for extra pay-outs above the agreed contracts. He wasn’t and the bad vibes never relented. A fine band had been assembled but as Young recalled they couldn’t bear to look at each other. Young retreated into loner mode and drinking his mood away in his hotel rooms, staying aloof on the hired private plane. In various stages of sobriety on stage most nights his venom came out in his delivery and driving the band to hopeless places night after night. His Harvest cohort Kenny Buttery started out on drums but even though his hand bled he couldn’t get the power Young demanded in his maniacal pursuit of some impossible desperate sound. So, he fires his friend off and calls up Johnny Barbata from the CSNY stable. Given twenty minutes rehearsal after a mad plane dash he takes the drum sticks. I love the description a critic made that on the ‘Time Fades Away’ track he sounds like he is hammering away in the background building a shed. I was more along the lines of the Muppet Show but you get the idea.

Time Fades Away – Neil Young Vinyl

‘Journey through the Past’ is almost a quiet, restrained interlude at the piano before he launches into ‘Yonder Stands the Sinner’. After a background introduction from David Crosby who he had brought in along with Graham Nash to try and keep some semblance of order to proceedings for the rest of the tour, Young goes off into the realms of madness. Goodness knows how this looked on stage. Youngs vocal verges on the demented as the band thrash away somewhere on stage. If Crosby and Nash expected some gorgeous soaring harmony parts, then they were soon disillusioned.

‘LA’ is a Young rant as he rages about his adopted home city. ‘Love in Mind’ calmed the mood on stage but not his anger and resentment.

Then one of his greatest songs – ‘Don’t be Denied’. His autobiographical journey through his childhood into his blossoming as an artist that the bullies of the playground can only look up and admire now. The band somehow hit the spot perfectly on this driven track, a performance of raw emotion and power with a delivery sent out with total conviction. The three-word chorus is breath-taking.

I first saw Young in 1974 at Wembley stadium with his mates CSN. There were many highlights that day, Joni Mitchell being an obvious one. Two things stand out though, still in full Technicolor after all these years. We were sat in line with the wide walkway that led to the side of the stage and come showtime what can only be described as a tribe of musicians, wives, girlfriends, children, agents, corporate hangers on slowly moved along to the stage with CSNY in amongst them. I remember the scene well, but my abiding memory is of this one person standing out in the crowd as it made its way to the stage – Neil Young. Of all the scores of people he was the only one that your eye focused on. On stage it was even more apparent that really only one person was dominating this show and he stalked the stage as if he was playing a solo gig. When he played ‘Don’t be Denied’ it was so wonderful that you almost felt it was time to go home, that was the peak.

Back to the album. It staggers to a conclusion that even by the standards of what has gone before is off the scale crazy. ‘Last Dance’ is again delivered in angry admonishing style and Young sounds manic as he gives a cursory introduction, slurring ‘this is the Last Dance’ before the band launch into ten minutes of sheer bedlam. No music scores on stands here. It runs out of steam and heads to a conclusion as the participants start to lose interest but Young then goes into a truly frenzied hyper state as he picks up an impromptu chorus of NO,NO,NO that he repeats endlessly, getting more agitated with each delivery. The band has nowhere to go and Nash cries out ‘Sing with us’ – who to and what they were supposed to sing is anyone’s guess. Whipping boy drummer Barbata finally encroaches in , trying to wind the madness up and succeeds, presumably because someone has got Young in a straightjacket. Good to end on a high.

This is not one to play in polite society but as a timepiece and a piece of social history as Young makes the transition from potential middle of the road artist to one that will plough his own creative furrow it is one of the most remarkable live albums.  Go listen.

Young would always divide opinion – especially amongst his fan base. Those that came in on ‘Harvest’ find it hard to take his other work as being by the same artist. The reverse it true – a Crazy Horse lover will prefer that but will still enjoy his acoustic work in a quiet moment of solitude. I last saw Young on his Crazy Horse tour of 2013 in Newcastle, England. This was the tour when it was reported he famously shouted at ‘Harvest’ lovers leaving for the Tube station at the O2 Arena that they would still hear him there anyhow. It was no different at Newcastle. Young was in spiky mode and a good many punters were restless including a few near us who wondered when the acoustic stuff would start. It wouldn’t, except for one crowd pleaser before reverting to type. He took no prisoners as he harangued the ‘folkie’ sections as to why they came – Neil Young and Crazy Horse it said on the ticket and just as a can of beans contained beans this contained noise, long solos and driven vocals. Indeed, just why were you there?

It has been a most entertaining ride.

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Neil Young Time Fades Away Back Cover

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Emmylou Harris – Pieces of the Sky

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Emmylou Harris – Pieces of the Sky

Emmylou Harris – Pieces of the Sky 1975

You probably like me bought a music paper every week. I had a standing order for the New Musical Express with my local newsagent, run by a couple of elderly, strait laced ladies. Now the NME had excellent reviews that we tended to treat as gospel. It was validatory to read a great review of an artist you admired, spent money on even. But, if they rubbished a favourite artist then that was hard to take. One time when I picked up my weekly copy the lady in the shop asked me if my mother knew I was buying this scurrilous trash. It must be said that the NME had sort of deviated from simply covering music and had become a forum for alternative lifestyle and a possible revolution. Still, the reviews were always good. However, I thought it best to switch to Melody Maker for a while.

The point of this rambling introduction is that although I put a lot of store by the reviews, they were only to validate what I thought I already knew. But there was one occasion when they prompted me to buy an album by an artist I had never heard, a leap into the unknown. NME had for some time been extolling the virtues of Emmylou Harris. Emmylou was coming out from the sadness of the tragic death of her mentor Gram Parsons, needing all the help she could get. Her record company put together probably the finest band on the planet to support her and the music press were willing her on. Her first album after her time with Gram Parsons was ‘Pieces of the Sky’. The review proclaimed it a masterpiece by an artist that you MUST listen to. It seemed that never in the history of popular music had such a voice been heard, such a band played together – you HAD to buy this album. They wore my resistance down. I always on my lunch break made the trek to Ames record store, almost expecting them to feed me as I was in so often. I would look at this album cover and ponder as to whether I should take the plunge and buy it. From the reviews I should like it – but would I? Would it just be that brand of country music that was either lots of YeeHaw or slushy sentimental gloop? Or was it as they said, something completely different, a reinvention of a genre, a faithful legacy from what Parsons had started. Only one way to find out.

Alt="Vinyl disk of the album Pieces of the Sky by Emmylou Harris 1975"
Emmylou Harris Pieces of the Sky Vinyl

The first thing that strikes you about this album is the cover. It is loaded with sentiment. Emmylou looks pensive, alone, wistful on the front. She is lost in thought – what would Gram think of this album and why isn’t he here? Above the photo is maybe a nod to Gram – an angel looking over her as she starts on her musical path alone. On the reverse she is dreamlike in a flowing light dress. Emmylou is in the desert, the scene of her unhappiness and the loss of her dreams. Was she there as the fire raged in the canyon? As James Taylor said ‘This is not a time for levity’. It is a heart-breaking cover, but does she move on with the music?

The reverse of the cover shows the fantastic range of musicians that help her launch her solo career. Glen D Hardin, James Burton, Ben Keith, Bernie Leadon, Linda Ronstadt and on it goes. This must be a great album and it is. A true masterpiece and a platform on which her stellar career was built.

Looking back this album has not aged one jot and although biased as Emmylou is one of my very favourite artists, I defy anyone to not enjoy this. Having said that it is not all enjoyment in a light-hearted sense. There is a theme here and the sadness that enveloped her comes through in the song choices – you will be moved as well as entertained.

The standout track is the one Emmylou wrote – ‘Boulder to Birmingham’. So good is this that you are surprised that is the only self-penned track, it would be some years before Emmylou had the confidence in her song writing to express herself on record more often. ‘Boulder to Birmingham’ is one of the saddest songs ever written. It makes no concessions to disguising that it is about Gram Parsons, specifically his death, the events around it and Emmylou’s searing pain. Her great friend Linda Ronstadt recalled that Emmylou was in ‘howling pain’ at this time. I encourage you to seek out her live version from 2016 from a concert celebrating her career – she is older, wiser, her voice is deeper, but she is still in ‘howling pain’. The song is still as powerful as the day it was written. The repeated line about walking from Boulder to Birmingham – if only she could see Gram’s face is heart wrenching. The distance literally is 2174 kilometres so maybe that gives a sense of depth to her pain. She doesn’t want to hear a love song, but did she stand on the mountain and watch it burn on the fateful night of Gram’s impromptu funeral? I hope looking back Emmylou appreciates just how wonderful this song is – the poetry is as good as anything ever written. When she muses that the hardest part is simply that she knows she will survive you find it astonishing that she can even sing this. What deep emotion she reaches.  

Then she concludes by asking us if we know what she means. Well – No, Emmylou I don’t. I am trying but I cannot get close to feeling the depth of sorrow that you do but I am really trying to do so. What I am grateful for is that this incredible piece of writing gives us that chance to feel emotions that we hope we will never have to find but if we do then you have prepared us. One of the great songs of all time.

In a sense this song could render the rest of the album meaningless, but it doesn’t. The songs are carefully chosen and complimentary. Upbeat songs Bluebird Wine, Bottle let me Down and Queen of the Silver Dollar show just how wonderfully joyous her live shows will be with the ‘Hot Band’. ‘If I Could only win your Love’, the Louvin classic is simply gorgeous, her duet with Herb Peterson showing the effect Emmylou’s voice has when paired with a male counterpart. Still one of my favourite songs. Resonating on into the future collaborations is her perfect take on Dolly Parton’s ‘Coat of many Colours’. Friendship with other artists was something Emmylou needed, and she made and retained these friendships all her life as she is one of the most loved artists today.

It would be a couple of years before I saw her in concert. This was at the Free Trade Hall in Manchester, England. Despite having seen scores of concerts over the years of the greatest of artists, this concert with the ‘Hot Band’ is THE one I would love to see again in that impossible time travel journey. What a night. Possibly the finest band ever put together, and they were put together, to make sure Emmylou got the best possible chance to succeed. The mixture of up-tempo country-rock that shook the old hall to the soaring, heartfelt vocals of Emmylou on the slower, sadder numbers was irresistible. You knew you were watching a lady who would be one of the greats of not just Country music but music, just music. So it proved. This album is the start and if you are for some strange reason unfamiliar with Emmylou’s work then please start here – and carry on with the peerless Emmylou Harris.  

Rear of the cover for Pieces of the Sky

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Hôtel Restaurant les Templiers and photography of Collioure France

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Hotel restaurant Les Templiers Collioure France – Interior view of the artwork.

On this mild clear evening the sun is going down, the scene is enlightened by the lights of the harbour front cafés and bars and the spot lights focused on Collioure’s church, Notre-Dame-des-Anges, a former converted lighthouse. Behind the church is the small Chapelle Saint Vincent on a rocky outcrop.

Alt="On the small island in Collioure Harbour is Chapelle Saint Vincent"
Chapelle Saint Vincent Collioure

There is of course in this gorgeous setting the natural moonlight sparkling on the sea and reflected on the brightly coloured fishing boats that are such a feature of the harbour at Collioure. These small boats have inspired so many artists over the years being painted and photographed so often that they are synonymous with this beautiful harbour. In the full light of day we will see them at their best later in the week. Artists and artisans such as Andre Derain, Henri Matisse, Pablo Picasso, Charles Rennie Mackintosh along with many others have been inspired by the light and views on offer here in Collioure. Inside the Restaurant/Bar Templiers which has a particularly attractive terrace on Avenue Camille Pelleton there are copies or art works adorning the walls by Picasso, Matisse, Dali and others. The restaurant had the originals left to them by these famous artists but some of these were stolen years ago so very understandably no originals are to be seen on display today.

Artists at work in the harbour at Collioure FRance

On the quayside leading down the Avenue there are many modern day artists painting the very same scenes, some to very good effect, others perhaps are a little dubiously talented. It all makes for a lovely peaceful and atmospheric scene though.

Alt="Picture of Collioure Harbour and church for French travel guide books"
The beautiful harbour looking across to the Church Collioure France

Along the front of the small half-moon shaped beach that has the church as its focal point there are many brightly lit cafés and most of these have a terrace spilling out right up to the beach, the clinking of glasses an ever present relaxing sound. The view from one of these tables is I feel as good as it gets and it is one that has to be savoured over a latte or a beer or a lovely chilled rosé wine.

Alt="A charming quiet backstreet in the fishing village of Collioure South of France"
Quiet back street in Collioure
Collioure Harbour

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Paris the 7th Arrondissement – or life beyond Rue Cler

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This chapter is from my book A DREAM OF PARIS available on Amazon

At the outset I have to make it clear that some of my best friends are American, as indeed are a good number of my wife Niamh’s extended family – the Irish get everywhere. However it seems to me that even you adventurous American tourists are complaining about the number of your compatriots that populate Rue Cler in the 7th Arrondissement, a now famous street within sight of the Eiffel Tower. It is as so many of you point out – the Rick Steeves effect. So is it worth going to this area of Paris or is it devoid of a true Parisian experience?

I have to say that I like Rue Cler even though it has something of an ‘American in Paris’ theme about it. If that comes across too strongly for you then be assured there is life beyond Rue Cler in this fascinating arrondissement. I hope you don’t mind but this part of the book will veer towards reading a little more like a guide book but I think this area of Paris repays a little more exploration than seems to be given to it by many visitors. Anyway, dining especially is a serious business in Paris. Like anywhere that is popular with tourists Paris will always have areas that certain groups will congregate in. Montmartre may be an area where more English tourists will find accommodation. You may find that the Japanese will gather more centrally in Paris. It has to be said that Rue Cler is most certainly an American enclave just as Lourmarin in Provence is a place they love and gather. The English in Provence will head for Menerbes, the village that Peter Mayle called home in ‘A Year in Provence’. On Rue Cler you have two cafés in particular that have become American clubs in reality – Café Du Marche and Le Central. It is true that some restaurants on Rue Cler have dumbed down their menus and are providing very standard unambitious fare, photos provided for the timid visitor. The waiter you will see is languidly placing the change on the table, his eyes looking elsewhere for another victim, daring the diners to pick up the change but also making it clear that the coins should be added to, making a larger tip before leaving. There are however places to eat even on Rue Cler that can be very satisfying and authentic.

Le Roussillon is one such establishment situated at the corner of Rue Cler and Rue Grenelle and is a bistro where we enjoyed a most enjoyable lunch with attentive service.  Where Rue Cler scores highly is that away from the congregated throngs around Café Du Marche there are so many authentic Parisian shops. Wine and cheese stores, vegetable and grocers shops, butchers and delicatessens and of course the regular street markets. You will really get much more out of this area however if you look beyond Rue Cler and these are a few places we have found and enjoyed over the years in this popular neighbourhood of Paris. The very first time we stayed in this arrondissement the hotel we chose was located just behind Rue Cler on Rue Valadon at what is now Hotel Valadon Colors. It has been completely refurbished from the time of our stay and has changed in its character but is still rated very highly. Rue Valadon is a quiet street, a virtual cul-de-sac, so is an excellent choice for the area. When we stayed we had a room with an Eiffel Tower view so it is certainly a place to consider. Just at the top of the street around the corner is a most wonderful cheese store and even if you do not go inside you will find the shop window itself is worth a few moments of your time.

My interests in any arrondissement in Paris are always connected to food, finding a fine restaurant in Paris is one of the utmost joys in life. Also you may have gathered I have a great love of history and that is well catered for in this area. Recently we made what can be viewed as a slight mistake in visiting Paris in August, the very time that most Parisians leave Paris and that includes many waiters and restaurateurs. We were very limited in our dining choices and did not really want to eat at the popular spots on Rue Cler. We were staying just around the corner from Rue Cler at the Hotel de la Motte Picquet and the clue to its address is in the name. This is a lovely unpretentious three star hotel that gives excellent friendly service, clean rooms and welcoming public areas with interesting views on to the lively Avenue de la Motte Picquet. It does not however have a restaurant so it is always a case of dining out for the evening. We passed the boisterous tables and bars of the upper end of Rue Cler, giving thanks that we were not eating there. There was the thought that there appeared to be little else on offer –‘les vacances d’été’ were in full swing and the closed signs were out in profusion.

Farther along Rue Cler we reached Rue de Grenelle and going to the left you come to number 167 where there is a small Italian restaurant called Le Den. It was open and it had three tables out in the street and on a balmy evening this seemed like an oasis in a dining dessert. This super little restaurant also seems to double as a deli. It serves wonderful Italian food including pizza of course, food made with fresh seasonal ingredients. It was in total contrast to the mainly conveyer belt tourist food just round the corner on Rue Cler. We were given lovely service from the young ladies who coped smilingly as extra tables were spread out along the street to accommodate all the diners that kept on coming. You did feel a little like you were an advertisement for the restaurant as people stopped to look and admire the dishes on the tables. The raviolo especially was wonderful and I would also encourage you to try the risotto. The panna cotta was definitely the dessert to go for and the house wines are a cut above the standard you may have expected. This was a very popular place and will be more so if they get the name confusion sorted out on the awnings and shop front. I am not quite sure where Le Den comes from as a name but if you are searching for it that is the name to enter in Google. So it is a case of going early or making a reservation. We ended up on our three night trip dining here every evening and we don’t usually do that on our travels. Yes I would have to make the point that it is on a fairly busy street but it still has a great ambiance especially as the light fades and you feel that you are in an authentic Parisian neighbourhood. We found this to be a hidden gem of a restaurant in this touristy part of Paris.  You can also book on Le Fork which is always a bonus.

If, unlike ourselves, you are sensible enough not to visit Paris in August when the heat is humid and sensible Parisians have abandoned the city, then you have some exceptional choices of eating venues. There are two in particular that are the epitome of classic French restaurants, in different ways as perfect a Parisian dining experience as you will find. They are also very close to one another just a short stroll from Rue Cler across Avenue Bosquet. The first one is the most charming (and petite) restaurant Le P’Tit Troquet at 28 Rue de l’Exposition, a quiet virtually car free cul-de-sac of a street. Think of going to someone’s home for a meal, a table spread modestly but attractively and you are the special guest to be fussed over and pampered. This is Le P’Tit Troquet. On the occasion we dined there we went with two friends who trusted me that I would make a memorable choice for them and they were not disappointed. We walked into the small dining space set out with a few tables, a scene that seemed to be out of a French movie, so intimate and welcoming. The first and obvious impression we gained was that all the tables were occupied and as I had booked in advance this was a little disconcerting. The lady in charge of front of house (and it is a very small house) came over offering us a large beaming smile of welcome and led us through the tables to an even smaller room at the back of the restaurant. This room had only four small tables which were all beautifully prepared. This was exactly like someone’s dining room at home and the feeling that you were a welcomed guest was enhanced every time you had an interaction with the lady or the waiting staff – a special place indeed. The menu is classic French cuisine, beef bourguignon served temptingly en cassolette, steak, duck, monkfish, sea bass and vegetarian options. The desserts are classics with a twist, Rum baba, chocolate mi-cuit and a Crème Brulee which does not have a twist – pure classic French. The wine is expertly chosen and complimentary to the meal. The room feels as if it is unchanged from seventy years ago. A room that could double as a film set from the war years and just after. Probably in those days totally smoke filled and each table occupied with romantically involved couples. It is a quite captivating ambiance and one exploited to the full in this intoxicating restaurant by the welcoming owners. Not to mention a chef with a repertoire steeped in the fine culinary history of France and Paris. He is a craftsman producing dishes that are firmly in context with the restaurant and the atmosphere of this super little establishment. As we left that evening, my companions found it very difficult to find words that fully expressed the experience they had just savoured. We noticed for the first time a small galley type kitchen to the left – I do mean small. There was the chef and one assistant who incredibly produced this classic French feast in such a tiny space. He smiled as we peered inside, confident that all was well with the dishes he had sent out to our table. He was totally justified in that confidence as we bid him good night and stuttered our grateful thanks.

Classic but on a slightly different scale and setting is the popular La Fontaine de Mars just at the end of the same street at 129 Rue Sainte Dominique. This restaurant has entertained presidents and celebrities but is not in the least pretentious. Again the classic French theme is portrayed by the red checked tablecloths and the wood panelling around the bar and inside the restaurant. It is a restaurant that in summer becomes open plan and spills tables out onto the street. The service is warm and friendly but it is very Parisian and just as you would expect in such a restaurant very rooted in its tradition. The menu is not experimental, just straight out of the French cookery school manual. Steak of course, duck confit, coq au vin, blanquette de veau, Burgundian snails, sole meuniere, foie gras if you wish and desserts following the same tried and tested traditions. All accompanied by wine by the glass and all the traditional aperitifs and digestifs on offer. It is relatively expensive but not overwhelmingly so. If you wish the wine list does stretch to some eye watering levels and if Chateau Petrus is your desire then you will find it here at a price. On the night we dined there I had the special on the menu which was a gorgeous fresh loin of cod with a perfect aioli sauce and simply cooked turned potatoes. To follow it was that most perfect of French desserts – Iles flottantes ‘Fontaines de Mars’ and very fine it was. Eating on a table outside and virtually on the street is not without its challenges though. On the night we were there the restaurant and surroundings were ‘entertained’ for a while by a fairly inebriated beggar who was making a nuisance of himself by going back and forth along the street hoping for a few coins to be tossed in his direction. He wasn’t aggressive but a bit loud at times and lacking in tunefulness and not really helping any romantic atmosphere that some were certainly hoping for. It all ended by the loud sirens of a police van that screeched to a halt and instantly ‘scooped’ him up into custody. At last peace reigned but as with any city Paris sadly does have its darker side and there are many unfortunate people that do not have the luxury of dining in the way we have been able to do this evening. The whole episode was a little comedic in how it was enacted and unfolded but still left you dismayed and sad that in our society there are ones reduced to this state. From a historical or architectural standpoint you cannot avoid the fact that this area is totally dominated by one structure and that is the large tower at the end of the Champs de Mars.

Alt="Photo of Eiffel Tower for French travel guide books"
Eiffel Tower Paris before a storm

Once you are at the tower and you have taken all the photos from every angle and perhaps gone across to the Trocadero and taken the shot from the vantage point of the Palais de Chaillot, a view that I feel gives the most dramatic -aew of the tower as you look through it down to the Ecole Militaire and Les Invalides then take a moment to find some more recent history. A pause for thought and reflection. If you go to Bir Hakeim Metro station which is to the right of the tower looking from the Trocadero you will find a monument to a tragic time in French history – a memorial that was only erected fairly recently. It is a statue to commemorate the appalling events of July 16/17 1942 – the “Vel d’Hiv” raid – the roundup of over 8000 Jews (Rafle du Vel’ d’Hiv) to the Vélodrome d’Hiver that stood near to this spot. The tragedy was compounded by the fact that this crime against humanity was carried out mainly by the French police and not the Germans. This was only recently fully acknowledged to be the case and remains deeply controversial in France. In slight mitigation it was also clear that a few brave police did try to give an advance warning about the action and some also allowed a very small number to make their escape from the Vélodrome but the stain on French history remains. I always find these places in Paris very poignant and I make no excuse to returning to this theme throughout my writings about Paris. I feel that you can only understand this amazing city by taking time to reflect on its past and the recent history of Paris in particular. Take a reflective moment to make that connection and remember these people and events.

Alt="Invalides courtyard Paris France scene of Dreyfuss court martial"
Invalides courtyard Paris

The natural progression from here is back to the tower and to walk up the Champs de Mars to the Hotel des Invalides and Napoleon’s tomb. France of course still reveres Napoleon (strangely enough he inspires a good deal of respect in England) and he possibly alongside De Gaulle is the most dominant figure in French history. Of course if you are reading this sat in the sunshine and holding a glass of Dom Perignon you may want to make a case for him as well. And then there is Joan of Arc ……. Anyway back to Napoleon. Or rather another event that Les Invalides is notoriously famous for and that is the trial of Alfred Dreyfus. This Jewish army officer was erroneously and wilfully  convicted of espionage and treason – another event that although occurring over 120 years ago has not disappeared from French consciousness. Admittance to Les Invalides is free of charge although you have to pay extra for viewing Napoleon’s tomb and the main area around that. Entering from the gardens on the Rue de Grenelle you make your way into the main courtyard. This is the area where Alfred Dreyfus was humiliated in front of his peers by having his sword ceremonially broken. He was then dishonourably discharged from the army prior to his barbaric incarceration in exile before being ultimately exonerated and released some years later. The British TV personality Davina McCall was featured in a ‘Who Do You Think You Are’ episode relating that she had a family connection to one of the men who fought and ultimately succeeded in proving his innocence. If you can find it online or procure a copy it is a fascinating insight into one of the most controversial events in relatively recent French history. In any case take a moment to visualize the scene in that parade ground and reflect on an innocent man in this standout case of deliberate miscarriage of justice. Around the courtyard you will see lines of heavy cannon. It is quite a display and they date back over some 300 years or so. I can set you a small challenge. Walk around the perimeter and look at each cannon and somewhere you will find that one of them has a spelling mistake in the casting. When you find it just spare a thought for the man who cast that vast lump of iron, hoping that it just resulted in a fleeting embarrassment for him rather than him being sent into exile or worse. Unfortunately it was not too fleeting as we can still clearly see it today. At the far end of the courtyard you will find a small church or chapel. Again up to this point it is free admission. If you go inside this building you can at the far end get a sense of how Napoleon’s tomb is laid out and it gives quite a dramatic effect without actually having to go inside the tomb area itself. When you leave Les Invalides by the same route you may wish to go to the right and then right again alongside the buildings and here you will find the Rodin museum which also includes sculptures in the garden area. This is a place that is often missed by the casual tourist but Rodin is very important to the French in art history . It is worth a look if you have any interest in French art and culture. I always smile at the mention of Rodin because of that amusing scene in ‘Midnight in Paris’ where Gil argues a point about Rodin in favour of the tour guide (Carla Bruni) over the pompous Paul played by Michael Sheen.


Perhaps I can now take you back to Rue Cler via Avenue de la Motte Picquet and return to my theme of the time of the occupation of Paris. Before heading to your hotel and getting ready for a fine meal in this endlessly fascinating and rewarding arrondissement just stand and reflect in front of the Elementary School on the Rue Cler side of the road. Pause and read (in French) the black plaque on the school wall. Like most of the schools in France some young pupils were forcibly taken from this school never to return, part of the over eleven thousand children that were taken from throughout France. There is no shame in shedding a tear and you will no doubt leave the scene as you return to your hotel with a deeper relationship and understanding of Paris.

Taken from my book ‘A DREAM OF PARIS’ available on Amazon

Alt="French travel book series and Collioure harbour photo"
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My Vinyl LP Record Collection – a life through Music

Alt='My LP vinyl collection, Carole King, Jackson Browne. Neil Young' Joni Mitchell, Emmylou Harris, Paul Simon"
My musical loves – a Vinyl collection

A life through Vinyl

Today, as I listen to the Bruce Springsteen ‘River’ album, I am wondering what it is that shapes our love of music and particularly a genre that we seem to stay with for life. To be fair I did come to Springsteen a little later in life although the seeds were already there for him to step into my collection. My reason for starting this journey through my past, to paraphrase Neil Young, was my father’s vinyl collection. My father died recently, and he left a vast collection of vinyl including 78’s which I suppose are technically shellac. His CD collection was even more extensive, but it was the vinyl that fascinated me.

As I looked through the records there was a familiarity about them. Growing up, I had of course heard nearly all this music many times. My father’s tastes did not greatly change from his first loves. These were mainly vocalists of the style of Sinatra, Billy Daniels, Al Martino, Nat King Cole, Frankie Laine, Alma Cogan, Kay Starr and many others of that 50’s and early 60’s generation. The CD collections showed little change in his tastes other than a large collection of Willie Nelson and a decent Classical music range.

These artists were special to my father. He saw the majority in concert, mainly in Manchester at the Palace Theatre or Blackpool in its heyday of attracting the big stars of the day. He loved to tell of seeing Sinatra in Manchester when the theatre was not even full. Yes, all special musical memories for my father.

I then realised that none of these great mid-20th century artists, massive stars in their day and all familiar to me, had not touched my musical consciousness one iota. A great collection of vinyl was just memories to me but musically I had no desire to hear them again. Why? At the time I heard them I certainly was not also listening to or even aware of the artists I would form a love of – a lifelong love. So why did I not share my father’s love of his artists before other influences kicked in? For me I would say that music did not take priority at that time. Sport did, especially cricket. However, when I look back, I can see that the seeds had been planted in my musically education. It did not come from my father’s collection.

The album, or should I say 10” vinyl album, a quirk of the day, was in fact among the records I found in my father’s collection. It was a great, pleasant surprise to find it as I thought it was long lost. It was the very first selection of music that started to form my musical DNA. It did not belong to my father but was a treasured possession of my grandmother. I spent a lot of time with my father’s mother and although her record collection was tiny compared to what was in our home it was more interesting to this young child. My grandmother delighted in playing this small group of records over and over again.

‘Satisfaction’ by the Rolling Stones was one of them. I didn’t mind it and it was certainly for an eight-year-old a great departure from the music on the stereogram back home. The other favourite of hers was ‘Green Green Grass of Home’ by Tom Jones. She loved that but I never pursued a Tom Jones collection of my own. There was a rare recording of the Beatles at the Royal Command Performance but again the Beatles did not stir any musical feelings. Wish I still had that single though. Did it really exist? Perhaps just in my memory. Maybe I just watched it with her.

It was this visually interesting 10” vinyl LP she had that I kept going back to. The green cover of the artist in the studio was intriguing. The PYE label on the vinyl was fascinating, it was the same logo as my father’s stereogram. This was her pride and joy, one I had to listen to – ‘it were great’ she said in her Lancastrian tones. This was Lonnie Donegan, and the album was called Showcase. Released the year after I was born it was already well used by the time my grandma introduced me to it. I loved it and insisted on hearing every time I visited. Only now, looking back and studying this well-worn copy re-discovered in my father’s collection do I understand that it formed the basis of my love of music and a musical genre. Musically Donegan was interesting, fresh and different for the time. It was lively and somewhat loose in style, sort of folky jazz. It stirred my musically feelings. I am ashamed to say that I never bought any of his recordings and music went on the back burner for about 10 years. I had other things to do. Lonnie Donegan though had introduced me to what I really love about music. As I look at that album now, I can see its influence very clearly. It is words. Words set to music are my great love. I want to be moved, I want to be sad, I want to be uplifted, I want a story and preferably a sad one. That 10” vinyl had those things. As a seven-year-old he formed my future love of a style of music and performing.

Lonnie Donegan Showcase 10″ vinyl

That album was full of stories and not all with happy endings. ‘Wreck of the Old 97’, ‘Frankie and Johnny’, ‘Wabash Cannonball’ and others were all stories, music with words. That would always be my love. I love sad music. My daughter says, ‘the sadder the better’. Artists such as Sandy Denny and Richard Thompson would certainly fill that need later, amongst others. On that Lonnie Donegan album is a song ‘Nobody’s Child. I defy you to find a sadder one.

Looking back, I find it fascinating that I could have had such a love of music formed so deeply at such a young age. So deeply that I never realised it until recently. Lyrically at the time they meant little, an eight-year-old could not relate to Frankie and Johnny that is for sure. But, they entered my make-up and the outcome would flourish later.

Lonnie Donegan was an extremely influential artist, and many artists of the calibre of Paul McCartney, Mark Knopfler and others testify to his influence on their music.

I can testify that he influenced my love of music and so having enjoyed looking at this old vinyl I will continue and explore my vinyl collection. I will try to express what these songs mean to me and add some context to the time and place they appeared to me. Maybe, that will resonate with you – I hope it will.

The reviews from 50 years or so on will be in no particular order, in fact I will probably just put my hand in there at times and see what comes out. I do have to begin somewhere so this choice selects itself as the beginning.

I will start with the first LP I ever bought – Carole King Tapestry.

Please enjoy my Travel books – LINK TO YOUR COUNTRY : https://bit.ly/bookneal

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French Travel Book series and New book Off the Autoroute

Paris Restaurant Cafe and location photography

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Restaurant on Rue St Andre des Arts Paris
Rue de Rivoli Paris
La Conciergerie · This former prison, now a museum is on the Ile de la Cité, a short walk from Notre-Dame Cathedral
Le Consulat Restaurant Montmartre Paris
Polidor Restaurant Paris – a favourite haunt of Hemingway and used as a location in Midnight in Paris
Tokens of love left on the Pont des Arts Paris

A few shots taken over the last few years. Paris always draws you back

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My Vinyl LP Record Collection – a life through Music

Alt='My LP vinyl collection, Carole King, Jackson Browne. Neil Young' Joni Mitchell, Emmylou Harris, Paul Simon"
My musical loves – a Vinyl collection

A life through Vinyl

Today, as I listen to the Bruce Springsteen ‘River’ album, I am wondering what it is that shapes our love of music and particularly a genre that we seem to stay with for life. To be fair I did come to Springsteen a little later in life although the seeds were already there for him to step into my collection. My reason for starting this journey through my past, to paraphrase Neil Young, was my father’s vinyl collection. My father died recently, and he left a vast collection of vinyl including 78’s which I suppose are technically shellac. His CD collection was even more extensive, but it was the vinyl that fascinated me.

As I looked through the records there was a familiarity about them. Growing up, I had of course heard nearly all this music many times. My father’s tastes did not greatly change from his first loves. These were mainly vocalists of the style of Sinatra, Billy Daniels, Al Martino, Nat King Cole, Frankie Laine, Alma Cogan, Kay Starr and many others of that 50’s and early 60’s generation. The CD collections showed little change in his tastes other than a large collection of Willie Nelson and a decent Classical music range.

These artists were special to my father. He saw the majority in concert, mainly in Manchester at the Palace Theatre or Blackpool in its heyday of attracting the big stars of the day. He loved to tell of seeing Sinatra in Manchester when the theatre was not even full. Yes, all special musical memories for my father.

I then realised that none of these great mid-20th century artists, massive stars in their day and all familiar to me, had not touched my musical consciousness one iota. A great collection of vinyl was just memories to me but musically I had no desire to hear them again. Why? At the time I heard them I certainly was not also listening to or even aware of the artists I would form a love of – a lifelong love. So why did I not share my father’s love of his artists before other influences kicked in? For me I would say that music did not take priority at that time. Sport did, especially cricket. However, when I look back, I can see that the seeds had been planted in my musically education. It did not come from my father’s collection.

The album, or should I say 10” vinyl album, a quirk of the day, was in fact among the records I found in my father’s collection. It was a great, pleasant surprise to find it as I thought it was long lost. It was the very first selection of music that started to form my musical DNA. It did not belong to my father but was a treasured possession of my grandmother. I spent a lot of time with my father’s mother and although her record collection was tiny compared to what was in our home it was more interesting to this young child. My grandmother delighted in playing this small group of records over and over again.

‘Satisfaction’ by the Rolling Stones was one of them. I didn’t mind it and it was certainly for an eight-year-old a great departure from the music on the stereogram back home. The other favourite of hers was ‘Green Green Grass of Home’ by Tom Jones. She loved that but I never pursued a Tom Jones collection of my own. There was a rare recording of the Beatles at the Royal Command Performance but again the Beatles did not stir any musical feelings. Wish I still had that single though. Did it really exist? Perhaps just in my memory. Maybe I just watched it with her.

It was this visually interesting 10” vinyl LP she had that I kept going back to. The green cover of the artist in the studio was intriguing. The PYE label on the vinyl was fascinating, it was the same logo as my father’s stereogram. This was her pride and joy, one I had to listen to – ‘it were great’ she said in her Lancastrian tones. This was Lonnie Donegan, and the album was called Showcase. Released the year after I was born it was already well used by the time my grandma introduced me to it. I loved it and insisted on hearing every time I visited. Only now, looking back and studying this well-worn copy re-discovered in my father’s collection do I understand that it formed the basis of my love of music and a musical genre. Musically Donegan was interesting, fresh and different for the time. It was lively and somewhat loose in style, sort of folky jazz. It stirred my musically feelings. I am ashamed to say that I never bought any of his recordings and music went on the back burner for about 10 years. I had other things to do. Lonnie Donegan though had introduced me to what I really love about music. As I look at that album now, I can see its influence very clearly. It is words. Words set to music are my great love. I want to be moved, I want to be sad, I want to be uplifted, I want a story and preferably a sad one. That 10” vinyl had those things. As a seven-year-old he formed my future love of a style of music and performing.

Lonnie Donegan Showcase 10″ vinyl

That album was full of stories and not all with happy endings. ‘Wreck of the Old 97’, ‘Frankie and Johnny’, ‘Wabash Cannonball’ and others were all stories, music with words. That would always be my love. I love sad music. My daughter says, ‘the sadder the better’. Artists such as Sandy Denny and Richard Thompson would certainly fill that need later, amongst others. On that Lonnie Donegan album is a song ‘Nobody’s Child. I defy you to find a sadder one.

Looking back, I find it fascinating that I could have had such a love of music formed so deeply at such a young age. So deeply that I never realised it until recently. Lyrically at the time they meant little, an eight-year-old could not relate to Frankie and Johnny that is for sure. But, they entered my make-up and the outcome would flourish later.

Lonnie Donegan was an extremely influential artist, and many artists of the calibre of Paul McCartney, Mark Knopfler and others testify to his influence on their music.

I can testify that he influenced my love of music and so having enjoyed looking at this old vinyl I will continue and explore my vinyl collection. I will try to express what these songs mean to me and add some context to the time and place they appeared to me. Maybe, that will resonate with you – I hope it will.

The reviews from 50 years or so on will be in no particular order, in fact I will probably just put my hand in there at times and see what comes out. I do have to begin somewhere so this choice selects itself as the beginning.

I will start with the first LP I ever bought – Carole King Tapestry.

Please enjoy my Travel books – LINK TO YOUR COUNTRY : https://bit.ly/bookneal

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Emmylou Harris – Pieces of the Sky

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Emmylou Harris – Pieces of the Sky

Emmylou Harris – Pieces of the Sky 1975

You probably like me bought a music paper every week. I had a standing order for the New Musical Express with my local newsagent, run by a couple of elderly, strait laced ladies. Now the NME had excellent reviews that we tended to treat as gospel. It was validatory to read a great review of an artist you admired, spent money on even. But, if they rubbished a favourite artist then that was hard to take. One time when I picked up my weekly copy the lady in the shop asked me if my mother knew I was buying this scurrilous trash. It must be said that the NME had sort of deviated from simply covering music and had become a forum for alternative lifestyle and a possible revolution. Still, the reviews were always good. However, I thought it best to switch to Melody Maker for a while.

The point of this rambling introduction is that although I put a lot of store by the reviews, they were only to validate what I thought I already knew. But there was one occasion when they prompted me to buy an album by an artist I had never heard, a leap into the unknown. NME had for some time been extolling the virtues of Emmylou Harris. Emmylou was coming out from the sadness of the tragic death of her mentor Gram Parsons, needing all the help she could get. Her record company put together probably the finest band on the planet to support her and the music press were willing her on. Her first album after her time with Gram Parsons was ‘Pieces of the Sky’. The review proclaimed it a masterpiece by an artist that you MUST listen to. It seemed that never in the history of popular music had such a voice been heard, such a band played together – you HAD to buy this album. They wore my resistance down. I always on my lunch break made the trek to Ames record store, almost expecting them to feed me as I was in so often. I would look at this album cover and ponder as to whether I should take the plunge and buy it. From the reviews I should like it – but would I? Would it just be that brand of country music that was either lots of YeeHaw or slushy sentimental gloop? Or was it as they said, something completely different, a reinvention of a genre, a faithful legacy from what Parsons had started. Only one way to find out.

Alt="Vinyl disk of the album Pieces of the Sky by Emmylou Harris 1975"
Emmylou Harris Pieces of the Sky Vinyl

The first thing that strikes you about this album is the cover. It is loaded with sentiment. Emmylou looks pensive, alone, wistful on the front. She is lost in thought – what would Gram think of this album and why isn’t he here? Above the photo is maybe a nod to Gram – an angel looking over her as she starts on her musical path alone. On the reverse she is dreamlike in a flowing light dress. Emmylou is in the desert, the scene of her unhappiness and the loss of her dreams. Was she there as the fire raged in the canyon? As James Taylor said ‘This is not a time for levity’. It is a heart-breaking cover, but does she move on with the music?

The reverse of the cover shows the fantastic range of musicians that help her launch her solo career. Glen D Hardin, James Burton, Ben Keith, Bernie Leadon, Linda Ronstadt and on it goes. This must be a great album and it is. A true masterpiece and a platform on which her stellar career was built.

Looking back this album has not aged one jot and although biased as Emmylou is one of my very favourite artists, I defy anyone to not enjoy this. Having said that it is not all enjoyment in a light-hearted sense. There is a theme here and the sadness that enveloped her comes through in the song choices – you will be moved as well as entertained.

The standout track is the one Emmylou wrote – ‘Boulder to Birmingham’. So good is this that you are surprised that is the only self-penned track, it would be some years before Emmylou had the confidence in her song writing to express herself on record more often. ‘Boulder to Birmingham’ is one of the saddest songs ever written. It makes no concessions to disguising that it is about Gram Parsons, specifically his death, the events around it and Emmylou’s searing pain. Her great friend Linda Ronstadt recalled that Emmylou was in ‘howling pain’ at this time. I encourage you to seek out her live version from 2016 from a concert celebrating her career – she is older, wiser, her voice is deeper, but she is still in ‘howling pain’. The song is still as powerful as the day it was written. The repeated line about walking from Boulder to Birmingham – if only she could see Gram’s face is heart wrenching. The distance literally is 2174 kilometres so maybe that gives a sense of depth to her pain. She doesn’t want to hear a love song, but did she stand on the mountain and watch it burn on the fateful night of Gram’s impromptu funeral? I hope looking back Emmylou appreciates just how wonderful this song is – the poetry is as good as anything ever written. When she muses that the hardest part is simply that she knows she will survive you find it astonishing that she can even sing this. What deep emotion she reaches.  

Then she concludes by asking us if we know what she means. Well – No, Emmylou I don’t. I am trying but I cannot get close to feeling the depth of sorrow that you do but I am really trying to do so. What I am grateful for is that this incredible piece of writing gives us that chance to feel emotions that we hope we will never have to find but if we do then you have prepared us. One of the great songs of all time.

In a sense this song could render the rest of the album meaningless, but it doesn’t. The songs are carefully chosen and complimentary. Upbeat songs Bluebird Wine, Bottle let me Down and Queen of the Silver Dollar show just how wonderfully joyous her live shows will be with the ‘Hot Band’. ‘If I Could only win your Love’, the Louvin classic is simply gorgeous, her duet with Herb Peterson showing the effect Emmylou’s voice has when paired with a male counterpart. Still one of my favourite songs. Resonating on into the future collaborations is her perfect take on Dolly Parton’s ‘Coat of many Colours’. Friendship with other artists was something Emmylou needed, and she made and retained these friendships all her life as she is one of the most loved artists today.

It would be a couple of years before I saw her in concert. This was at the Free Trade Hall in Manchester, England. Despite having seen scores of concerts over the years of the greatest of artists, this concert with the ‘Hot Band’ is THE one I would love to see again in that impossible time travel journey. What a night. Possibly the finest band ever put together, and they were put together, to make sure Emmylou got the best possible chance to succeed. The mixture of up-tempo country-rock that shook the old hall to the soaring, heartfelt vocals of Emmylou on the slower, sadder numbers was irresistible. You knew you were watching a lady who would be one of the greats of not just Country music but music, just music. So it proved. This album is the start and if you are for some strange reason unfamiliar with Emmylou’s work then please start here – and carry on with the peerless Emmylou Harris.  

Rear of the cover for Pieces of the Sky

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Normandy – History, Markets and Food to Start Touring France

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Peaceful Trelly in the Manche region of Normandy

Normandy

Our first trip to France coincided with a change to my company car, almost to the very day. It is a long story but for a time I had been using a spare company vehicle after having, shall we say, a few misfortunes with my own allotted vehicle. Anyway, it was time to choose a brand new one and having done so, checked the delivery schedule, we looked set to make our first visit abroad in a lovely shiny new car. That was the plan anyway.

Needless to say, my car was trapped in some endless production line somewhere in Europe and information was impossible to come by. In the week coming up to our trip, I resorted in desperation to calling the transportation company scheduled to bring the car from the port to the retail garage. Finally, I got somewhere, some information that my disinterested dealer could not find. Again, to cut a long story short, the car was to arrive at the main dealer in Leeds, Yorkshire on the afternoon before we were due to travel. We had used this dealer, which was inconveniently a difficult 70-mile drive from home, because they gave the best trade in value on the unloved staff car I had been using. Sometimes you get what you pay for and clearly customer service was one of the optional extras mentioned in the small print.

However, I finally arrived home the proud owner of a beautiful new car, a travelling companion that would eventually do more than 40,000 miles around the regions of France, with just one stutter along the way. That is a story for later in the book, but it was quite a stutter. So, arriving home around 8pm we were finally all packed and ready to go, but it had been a close-run thing, especially as we had to be on our way by 2 am to drive down to Portsmouth for the early morning ferry to Cherbourg. The delay with the car meant that we could not do the sensible thing of taking an overnight stay close to the ferry port. From a purely selfish point of view, it also meant I had to put my own diesel in the car as the company supply was closed when I got back home. You remember petty things like that, particularly when you know that expense would have been better spent on another long French lunch. Such ingratitude! I am a generous soul really.

The dawn chorus was just thinking about making an appearance when we started our approach to the ferry terminal at Portsmouth. It was then that I realized why my mouth had gone so dry and my hands were shaking. I had not got the faintest idea of how to proceed to the ferry and an embarrassed fear set in. Where on earth do I go – what lane do I take? So focused had I been on the car situation that I had not even looked properly at the tickets to ascertain which operator we were travelling with. Fortunately, at this early hour the port was almost deserted, so I had time to stop, blocking a lane, assess what I was doing, and where to go. I eventually arrived at what turned out to be the correct operator booth and handed my ticket to the pleasant but sleepy young lady who was looking down on me from high above.

I had though made the mistake of going to a booth that was really for coaches and lorries, but she humoured me, and obviously there was no way I could turn round or reverse around the pantechnicon hugging the paintwork at the rear of my car. Fortunately, I could not see the driver, but I assume there was some vigorous shaking of the head going on. She asked me for the registration number of my vehicle, but she might just as well have asked me to explain the theory of relativity. I said I had just picked up the car from the dealer and implied with Northern humour subtlety as to how on earth she would expect me to know. Only one thing for it – get out and have a look at the front of the car and trust I could remember it during the few yards back to the booth. I did not raise my head to look at the driver behind who no doubt was being frustratingly delayed in getting his full English breakfast. I suppose if I had time to think rationally, I could have looked at the paperwork in the glovebox, but you just don’t think do you? The young lady gave me this complicated thing to hang on my mirror so that we would be directed to the correct ship, but I was all fingers and thumbs and never was good at DIY, so I threw it at my wife Niamh to sort out, drove off, and the bottleneck of lorries was released. I learnt an exceptionally fine lesson that morning and one that I would always follow as our travels developed in their complexity.

From that first debacle at the ferry port, I now always do my research. In the future I would always know where I was going and what I had to do when travelling. I particularly enjoy researching our plans and it saves a lot of potential embarrassment – not all, but most. I got so proficient in knowing how things worked in France that I was happy to share that with others who were making similar trips. A good friend of mine asked about how to use the toll booths on the French autoroutes. I was happy to explain to him how to hand over his euros or use his credit card to be able to proceed. On his first, and as it turned out his only car journey to France, he got to his first Autoroute toll, then blanked out completely and ended up just parking the car in front of one of the large concrete buttresses at the tolls. A gendarme eventually came over and instead of arresting him took pity on him and showed the way forward. Maybe it was the way I explained it, but I do know he has never taken his car to France again but only returned there on the Eurostar.

Once at Cherbourg I then had the perils of driving on the ‘wrong side of the road.’ I have to say I was terrified as the massive ferry doors opened to disgorge us from this cavernous space. Now after many years it is such a familiar and routine thing for me to do, but the first time was to put it mildly – a bit of a worry. My sensible plan was just to follow someone else for as long as I could. In reality, driving in France was not something I needed to be overly concerned about. Once we had escaped the port area and easily picked up the route we required, it was comforting to find that the roads were impossibly quiet compared to the UK. You had time to think and driving actually became a pleasure. Driving in France over the years always has been fun and satisfying. There is time to take in the scenery, stopping when you wish, and generally park your car freely. Touring France became one of our great pleasures in life and still is.

Our first destination on the continent was to Saint Vaast la Hougue at its delightful hotel – Hotel de France Restaurant les Fuchsias. This hotel and restaurant had and still does have a fine reputation, particularly for the food on offer. We were destined to arrive early having made good time so far on the journey and so decided to call in at the little fishing port of Barfleur on the eastern side of the Cotentin Peninsula. From there it would be just a short journey on to Saint Vaast. The early April day was bitterly cold, in fact it was close to freezing with a raw wind coming into the harbour from the east. We had expected it to be just a little milder, we were not overly prepared for such low temperatures, but I managed to persuade Niamh that the little port village – our very first experience of one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France – was worth braving the Siberian cold. The hard granite buildings of the port made it feel and appear even colder than it was. The water in the harbour would not have sustained your life for long should you have fallen from the unprotected sea wall. Barfleur has a fascinating history. It was the starting port for the invasion of Britain and the subsequent battle of Hastings in 1066. It was also the scene of a great sea battle that finally destroyed the hopes of King James the II of England in his bid to regain his throne.

For a small settlement of this size Barfleur has played an astonishingly significant role in the history of England. Some fifty-four years after William the Conqueror set sail to claim the throne of England a great tragedy unfolded on the rocks around the port of Barfleur. It was a shipwreck – The White Ship. It was said of that devastating night that ‘No ship ever brought so much misery to England.’ The pristine new ship Blanche-Nef sank just beyond the harbour, impaled on the infamous Quillebeuf reef. It was not the loss of the ship that was so devastating to England, but the tragedy suffered by the human cargo on board, the flower of England’s up and coming youth, along with a vast array of the nobles of England. Worst of all, the heir to the throne of Henry I of England, his son Prince William, was lost in the wreck. The story is a fascinating one. It is redolent of images that could be imagined today, of youths on a rowdy night out, drinking more than is good for anyone, but stepping into a vehicle to inevitable doom. King Henry had been offered this ship for his own passage, all showroom new and modern, but he had already given his word to travel on another vessel. He left the harbour before the White Ship and arrived safely home. He allowed his excited, headstrong son to travel with his friends and entourage on this fabulous, sleek, pristine vessel, on its maiden voyage after being stunningly crafted for an owner who descended directly from the Conqueror. To have such Royal patronage was a prestigious bonus. For Prince William and his lively companions, a good night out was called for before attempting to catch up with his father travelling in his modest, slow but reliable craft. From all accounts all in the party were fully inebriated by the time they boarded the White Ship and the revelries continued on board. More importantly the crew had also been willing participants in the alcoholic generosity of Prince William. Some sober passengers wisely disembarked along with an extremely ill cousin of William, young Stephen of Blois who needed to be no more than a few paces from a bathroom, in no condition to sail. His good fortune in missing the boat comes back to haunt all England in years to come.

The riotous company on board are brought back to sobriety within minutes when the glorious White Ship is torn apart on the reef, travelling at tremendous speed on a wrong course set by the drunken captain. Prince William is initially saved on the only boat available, but, hearing the cries of his sister he orders the craft back to the sinking vessel. His small craft is overwhelmed by desperate, drowning passengers seeking safety and Prince William is swept away. His body is never found. There is only one survivor, a butcher named Bertold from Rouen. He had been pursuing debts owed to him by the nobles in Henry’s entourage, following them all the way from Rouen onto the boat before being stranded on it as it sailed out of port. The shipwreck ripped the heart out of the English nobility and caused a crisis regarding the heir to King Henry. Stephen of Blois, whose need of the toilet had saved him, ultimately takes the throne despite the rightful heir being nominated as Henry’s daughter. This sets off a vicious time of civil war in England and ferocious atrocities are carried out during this time of anarchy before Stephen finally dies. The uncertainty continued after his death and all this because of a drunken night out by headstrong youths.

Outside this infamous harbour there are still natural mussel banks in the waters off the coast, providing the bounty of the Moules de Barfleur. The mussels are harvested from small boats from the harbour at Barfleur. These particular seasonal mussels are known as ‘Barfleur blondes’ and have been allocated for some years now the quality charter ‘Moule de Barfleur Normandie Fraîcheur Mer.’ Just like French wine they have their own appellation, and this is something you will find distinguishes local produce all over France. From chickens to cheese and everything in between. The French will always put a label on quality and regional excellence. Sadly, this is not a time for contemplation of French produce or French regional architecture. It is mind numbingly cold here and made worse by the wind whipping across the undeniably attractive harbour at Barfleur.

Niamh has all the historical facts she needs from me and so we head to the sanctuary of the car. The heater and heated seats are immediately turned up to full volume. We just hope that the weather turns at least a few degrees warmer, allowing us to enjoy Normandy out in the open and not from inside the shelter of a warm car. Even in darkest Lancashire I would never expect to encounter such cold in April. We head to our hotel in Saint Vaast – Hotel de France Restaurant les Fuchsias. This is a lovely, very French hotel, not grand but homely and authentic – and yes there is an abundance of fuchsias around the building. We are shown to our room which is across a rear garden courtyard area that blooms with some hardy spring bluebells. The accommodation is quite separate from the main building which houses the restaurant, Les Fuchias. It has to be said the room is not really shabby chic, rather shabbier than chic. It is spotlessly clean though and has all we need but clearly getting to the point where a makeover is required. The view back over the garden from the first-floor room makes it feel as if you are surrounded by garden allotments. We look forward to enjoying some produce from this very local garden served in the restaurant in the evening. The view from the front of the room is onto the main street in Saint Vaast.

We will find the next morning it is a lively and popular street on a Saturday morning. Finding as many warm clothes as possible from our limited supply and despite the bitter cold, we head out into the town and port of Saint Vaast to explore our new unfamiliar surroundings. If you have read some of my other writings, you will know that I love to cook, and my favourite produce is fish and seafood. For that reason, we head to the harbour and port, an enterprise that is still commercially active. Possibly a lot of the fish is Cornish, but that is for others to argue the rights and wrongs over, as we know today that battle is still disputed over. I always find these quaysides fascinating and have great admiration for these hardy souls who risk their lives out on the ocean providing this wonderful fresh produce. It is a hard living, and the rewards are difficult and unpredictable to come by, but a port like Saint Vaast and others on the Normandy coast have a long and proud relationship with the sea. Alongside the fishing port there is a sizeable marina displaying that sailing is a serious activity here. The harbour of Saint Vaast is an extremely desirable and attractive location to moor a craft. The fishing boats docked on the quayside have their support trades including fishmongers occupying the buildings lining the quay.

Opposite these buildings, on staging pontoons stretching from the other side of the harbour, the yachts and pleasure craft are moored. Berthed on a stone jetty from the quayside, fishing boats are located, and this leads the eye to a small lighthouse at the harbour entrance. Beyond the harbour wall there is an island called Tatihou which sounds like it should be out in the Pacific Ocean. Our old friend from previous escorted travels, Vauban the architect of Louis XIV, created the Tour Vauban de la Hougue on the island. He was responsible, as he was throughout France, for strengthening port defences. At low tide you can reach the island on foot or by an amphibious vehicle. You will see the oyster beds of the prized local delicacy that grows slowly in these rich pure waters of the Contentin coast.

We extended our stroll in the numbing cold to an exposed area where there is a small chapel – La Chapelle des Marins or Chapel of the Sailors. This chapel is the choir of the old church of Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue originally built in the 11th Century. In the early 1700’s a square tower was added on the south side, embellished with a modest spire. In 1805, the parish priest added a side nave, also a chapel on the north side and had a sacristy built. Today, this chapel is dedicated to the sailors, the fishermen who are always in peril at sea. This is brought home to you by the many commemorative plaques dedicated to these men. It is a quiet reflective place that impels you to have a moment of meditation about how the produce you love can cost the ultimate price. As we make our way back to the hotel down the fishing quay we come to a small well equipped and modern fishing boat. The name seems quaint as we try to pronounce it – Cachalot (CASH – A – LOT). Oh, I get it now, CATCH – A – LOT. A little French joke on the Cornish perhaps. Mmm, very funny.

Feeling refreshed after a hot shower, but hungry, we make our way down to Les Fuchsias dining room. It is richly elegant, the tablecloths are crisp, the glasses and cutlery beautifully polished and of course some fresh flowers are on the tables. The welcome is a little stiff and formal but efficient. This is not a Michelin star restaurant, but you feel it has pretentions in that direction. Unusually at this early time of around 7pm the French clientele are already in their seats and the dining room is full. The atmosphere is still a little reserved and conversation is quiet and stilted but it does loosen up considerably as the meal progresses and the wine flows. I can only describe the clientele as a little bourgeoisie, it is a room composed of people who like fine dining, they dress appropriately. It is not that we feel underdressed as we have made quite an effort considering our poor Lancastrian peasant background but there are some expensive dresses and suits in here with a few dazzling embellishments on the ladies. This is our first taste of how the French really take going out for a meal extremely seriously. In England we tend to dress down for most things these days but that is not the case here. An evening meal in a restaurant for the French is to be savoured, you should look your best. They certainly do here.

The exquisitely dressed lady at the next table catches your eye with her beautifully tailored dress and exquisite pearl necklace. It is only after you have taken that in that you notice there is sitting on her lap the most perfectly presented small Pekinese dog. It is not the red bow in its hair that surprises you but the fact that it is there at all. This is something else we will have to get used to in France. The meal is a delight, and we accompany the beautiful fresh dish of John Dory with a fine bottle of Sancerre. The dessert course is a work of art, an unbelievably delicious one of millefeuille with the freshest of fruit accompaniment. With an Armagnac to finish, after a long day of travelling and seeing new sights we are happy to call it a day to now sleep soundly. Well, we slept soundly but only for a fixed amount of time.

My bleary-eyed look at my watch did indeed confirm that the tremendous clash of steel against steel has taken place at 5am. Hoping that it is safe to peer through the curtains I take a glance into the half-light outside. This is our first experience of a French market, and it will not be the last time we are roused from our beds when this sacred tradition of French life is enacted outside our bedroom window. I am not going to complain, and I never will as we will grow to love French markets, starting from today. The street is a hive of frantic activity and that in itself is quite unusual in France. A host of white vans are disgorging every conceivable type of fresh produce and household goods including of course that fixture on a French market – a mattress stall. There are no concessions to the sleeping inhabitants of the surrounding houses as the boisterous chatter from the stallholders combines with the noise from erecting the stalls. As early as 7am there are local customers, well-worn bag in hand, arriving at the market to be first to buy the prime produce on display. Immediately below our bedroom window is a large fruit and vegetable stall that takes up the entire width of the street.

Alt="Photo of Saturday market setting up in St Vaast Normandy"

It is a colourful display that looks like a breakfast buffet set up just for us. Looking over the rooftops down the main street of Saint Vaast you can see the full extent of this sprawling market. The air is damp and cold and rising from a section of stalls there is a blanket of steam that exaggerates just how cold the morning is. These stalls of course are hosted by the vendors of roast chicken and potatoes, a display that is an ever-present pleasure to behold and taste on a French market. We are a little behind the locals in getting to the market despite it starting just outside our hotel bedroom – I could almost have stepped out into the street. After a buffet breakfast of limited choice but constructed with quality ingredients we stroll out into the now bustling town. French markets are irresistible to us even in the intense cold of this early April morning. Sadly, we are not self-catering on this trip. Despite the superb range of produce on offer we must pass it all by and feel a little embarrassed in accepting regular samples from the enthusiastic vendors. The stalls are set up right outside the shops that permanently trade in the town and some of the stalls are selling exactly the same range of products as the shop they have built their stall in front of. Perhaps that is why this type of market is so uncommon in England. I doubt many shopkeepers back home would take a tolerant view of a competitor blocking their shop front and entrance for a few hours on a couple of days a week.

A cultural difference that we happily get used to. There is a store in Saint Vaast that certainly must be affected to a degree on market days as it sells such a wide range of goods. It is a remarkable shop to find in such a relatively small town. One of the finest stores you will find anywhere outside of Paris, La Maison Gosselin is reminiscent of Fortnum and Masons in London but not quite on such a grand scale. They are basically an épicerie selling fine foods and wine with an array packaged beautifully for a thoughtful gift for friends and family. The range of goods extends widely and eclectically into kitchenware, toys, and perfume but it is the superb range of quality edible produce that makes this such a gorgeous place to browse. It is very much like a provincial version of Harrod’s food hall. If you are lucky, you may catch sight of the vintage delivery van on the streets of Saint Vaast. It is a step back in time to see all these fine foods with the traditions of the past respected and brought right up to date. It is an unexpected find in this area of France, a store that could easily be placed centre stage on a boulevard in Paris.

Other shops on the main street of Saint Vaast also raise their game in the retail stakes, encouraged no doubt by the example of M. Gosselin. Close by is the most attractive of butchers called Villeneuve with its lovely period wooden store front. The displays are extensive with a vast range of prime cuts of meat, sourced of course as locally as possible. None of their produce is alive thankfully, although that extra fresh condition is available on the market stalls. The area is famed for the rich pastureland and the quality of the meat reflects that. Salt marsh lamb is a speciality and not to be missed if you are a meat lover when you encounter it on a restaurant menu here in Normandy. As is customary in such a boucherie as Villeneuve you will find a range of the finest charcuterie and dairy products. Another feature that every self-respecting establishment of this type would always have outside the store is a chicken rotisserie. The one here is going at full steam and packed with succulent roast chicken, the fragrant juices dripping slowly to be absorbed into the potatoes cooking below. The shop owner is determined to match the efforts of the interlopers on the market but as always on market days there are enough customers for everyone, not a single chicken will go unsold.

Normandy is famous for the bounty that it produces, the quality is as high as it has ever been. In the times of the occupation during WWII Normandy was still able to keep a supply of wonderful produce going into Paris, either by traditional methods or more commonly illegal, black-market ones. The city was thankful but reliant on the green pastures of this land for sustaining them through those appalling times. Everyone in Paris wanted to claim they had a relative in Normandy that would filter such produce into the capital and provide safe cover for illegal purchases. To balance all this fine meat-based produce available either fresh from the boucherie or pre-prepared, exquisitely packaged in M. Gosselin, there are displays of the finest fruit and vegetables to delight the most fastidious of vegetarians or vegans. I feel slightly overwhelmed to be in a small town away from any large conurbation offering a bewildering array of fine things out of all proportion to the apparent modest status of the place. The contrast with England could not be more striking. That contrast extends to the seafront where the boats have returned after a night spent on the freezing choppy waters of the channel.

We cannot resist paying another visit to the quayside to observe this scene of urgent activity. Here there is more furious work enacted to compete with the bustling town and market that we can still hear is in full flow behind the harbour. Fish of the highest and freshest of quality is being unloaded, energetically, and noisily, by these tired fishermen who are concerned with getting their catch ashore and on sale as soon as possible. All along the quay are lines of white vans ready to speed the produce away to market. No doubt some will be on a restaurant menu in Paris today, maybe even by lunchtime. One or two townsfolk have gathered to buy some fish straight off the boat from an obliging fisherman. Again, I am so jealous of their ability to be able to source such produce simply a stone’s throw from their home. I will always find a visit to a French market exhilarating and even more so if I can buy some fresh produce to cook later. Sadly, not today.

The main theme of our visit to this part of Normandy will be historical and I will come to the events of D-Day relating to the beaches in more detail when we head to the conclusion of our French tour. I love history and I am particularly intrigued by the times of the occupation of France and the events surrounding the liberation. So, with lovely markets and shops, great food and wine in the restaurants, plus all the history of this part of France, I am in my element. It is an ideal place to start our independent travels in France. Before I get too engrossed in the impact of D-Day there is one event that occurred around that day close to our base here in Saint Vaast that I must share before we move on. It took place at a small commune called Sainte-Mère-Église, located just down the coast from Saint Vaast, coming inland from Utah beach.

Sainte-Mère-Église was the first town liberated by the allies and is as good a place as any to start a tour of the places of historical D-Day significance. It also makes a valid claim to be a must visit town because of an extraordinary event that took place there during a massive allied drop of paratroopers in the early hours of that fateful day of June 6th. The brave operation was varied in its initial success, lacking coordination, with many men and units becoming widely separated. However, despite suffering significant losses the American troops finally succeeded in taking the town on the night of June 6th, 1944. The town itself though was in danger of being burnt to the ground when a dominant property in the town square caught fire. The townsfolk bravely formed a human chain to get buckets of water to the scene and eventually the fire was contained preventing much more acute damage to the town. All this was done despite the threatening gunfire from the German garrison who were ordering the people back to their homes.

Sainte-Mère-Église as you may be aware, especially if you are an American reader, owes its fame not for this dramatic battle for the town, or for being the first liberated place in France, nor indeed for the bravery of the townspeople. It owes its fame to one man, a paratrooper named John Steele who was an onlooker witnessing all the drama and firefight that took place in the town that night. In fact, he had the finest possible vantage point although he would not have seen it in that light on that night. Private John Steele, paratrooper in 82nd Airborne Division, was helplessly hanging by his parachute from the church tower high above the square. As the bullets were flying around below him and explosions from the artillery crashed all around, he could only helplessly dangle on his perch, exposed to not only the elements, but in mortal danger from any stray bullet or mortar. Like many of his comrades he had been dropped in error directly over the village. John Steele despite his incredibly dangerous position was one of the fortunate ones as the paratroopers were easy targets for the German ground troops. Many from his battalion did not survive the night.

Alt="Photo of John Steele paratrooper US army in Normandy France"

John Steele, despite being wounded in the foot, played dead by staying as still as possible for over two hours before the Germans eventually took him down, thinking they were just retrieving a body. Had he shown signs of life during the battle he would have been shot. In fact, he owed his life to two of his comrades. One had also been left hanging by his parachute some metres below him. The other had landed in front of the church and was shot by a German immediately he descended to the street. Believing the young sergeant to be dead the German turned his gun up to the other two helpless Americans. The paratrooper he had shot was not dead and summoned enough strength to draw his gun and kill the German before he could fire at the two paratroopers. It was the young man’s last act as he fell to the ground and died, having undoubtedly saved his comrades. The other man managed to cut his strings and release himself to the ground and escape, believing the motionless John Steele to be dead. John Steele having been taken into captivity still managed to escape from the Germans that night and returned to his regiment. He continued his service throughout Normandy and on into Germany, surviving the war.

When you visit the town, you will be drawn to the most dominant feature in the square, an effigy of John Steele, complete with parachute, hanging from the church. Apparently, it is on the wrong side of the building, but its position is better placed for tourists. There is an Auberge in the town named after him and an entire industry of memorabilia keeps many a local in euros. It is an extraordinary story and the bravery and courage under fire of John Steele has become legendary through the book and film ‘The Longest Day. John Steele, although able to bask in the fame of these exploits, did not have a happy life afterwards and died quite young from cancer. He also never mentioned his other two colleagues which would have rounded out the story and there is some controversy that lingers to this day about why he took all the attention, including being feted at the release of the film. Ultimately, his was the more interesting story, he was the one left in position on the church. Nobody remembers who was second, but the full story including the bravery of his comrades is being told today and we can look at it in more accurate detail now, rather than relying on the Hollywood version of events.

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